The Boston Terrier is a small companion dog that is affectionate, playful and energetic. These adorable guys make wonderful pets and are easy keepers, with moderate exercise needs, and a coat that requires minimal grooming.Boston’s are considered one of the few true American dog breeds, but in fact their origins are in the English Bulldog, Bull Terrier, and later, the French Bulldog. All Boston’s trace their linage back to a single sire, Judge, owned by Edward Hooper.
Another surprising fact about the breed (especially given their renowned placid temperament) is that they were originally bred as fighting dogs. The Boston Terrier is a small, compact dog, ranging from about 10 to 25 pounds in weight, and 15 to 17 inches in height. They have small, erect ears, a shortened muzzle and large, slightly protruding eyes.
They have a distinctive coat which somewhat resembles a tuxedo, and can be black and white, brindle and white, or seal and white. The Boston is not a true terrier, despite its name. The AKC recognized the breed in 1893, classifying it in the non-sporting group.
Within the breed there are variances of temperament, some are extremely eager to please, while others may be stubborn and willful. Having said that, Boston’s tend to form strong bonds with their owners and have an uncanny knack of interpreting their moods. They are very sensitive to tone of voice and don’t appreciate harsh words or treatment.Despite their stature, they are not afraid to stand their ground, and will protect their family against any threat.
Grooming a Boston is easy. These dogs shed very little and the coat only needs to be brushed once or twice a week. In addition to brushing you will need to keep the eyes clean, by wiping them daily with a damp cloth.
Although they are not the most active of dogs, you will have to get your Boston Terrier out for a walk every day. Dogs that are insufficiently exercised and lacking in mental stimulation often develop behavioral problems, and in this breed it is likely to manifest as chewing and problem barking.
You should however take care not to overexert the dog, especially in hot weather. Like many short-faced breeds, the Boston Terrier is prone to breathing problems. These dogs do very well in an apartment, as long as they get enough exercise.
Bostons have an above average lifespan, with many living 15 or longer. They do, however, have a number of health issues including, brachycephalic syndrome, skin and heart tumors, and cataracts.
Picking a name for your Boston Terrier can be a challenge. The best advice is to visit some of the many puppy names, sites online. My recommendation is puppy-names-hq.com, which has a huge database, including thousands of cute dog names.
Filed under Pets at Home by 
Crate training involves teaching your dog to spend time in a dog crate – a plastic, wooden or wire enclosure. Many dog owners worry that this is cruel, but in fact, once they are used to it, most dogs really enjoy spending time in the crate.
The crate simulates the den environment of a wolf, so not only is crate training humane, it actually draws on natural canine behavior.
The best time to start crate training in the first night the puppy spends in your home. By now you should already have bought a crate that accommodates your puppy's adult size. Buy one with a sliding panel, and adjust the panel, so the pup has just enough space to lie down and turn around.
Put in a soft towel, rather than a blanket, for the puppy to sleep on. If the pup then ‘has an accident’ in the crate, the towel will absorb any messes.If you bought your puppy from a breeder try to get a strip of blanket with the mother's scent on it. This will be a comfort to your puppy as she settles in.
Put the crate in an area that will allow the pup to interact with the family. Don't put the crate in a secluded spot as the puppy will feel isolated and take longer to settle. Remember that dogs are social creatures by nature.
For the first few weeks, you should put the crate in your bedroom at night. Expect a ruckus at first. Remember, she's just a baby, taken away from her family and put into a place filled with strange sights, smells and sounds.
Don't feel you have to respond to every whimper though. Do this and she'll soon figure out how to get you to come running.
Within a day or two, your pup will be used to the crate and within a few weeks you can move her out of the bedroom. She'll probably kick up a fuss again, but provided you don't respond to her cries, she will get used to the idea quite quickly.
Before too long she'll learn to love the crate and will go there of her own accord.
An often overlooked benefit of crate training is that it makes house training a breeze. Dogs are, by nature, clean animals, so if your puppy needs to go while she's in the crate she'll learn to keep it in.
Remember that your pup will not have the bladder control of an adult dog, so keep her stays in the crate short – no more than an hour at a time.
If she starts making a fuss and wanting to go out, get her outdoors right away. Give lots of praise when she relieves herself outside and your potty training will be much easier.
Visit dogsanddogtraining.com to learnmore about crate training puppies, dog care, dog walking and other helpful dog advice.
Filed under Pets at Home by
One of the great joys of dog guardianship is spending time in the great outdoors with your best buddy. The sunshine, the fresh air, sight and sounds – what could be better.
But lurking in those woods lies a hidden danger. No, I’m not talking about bears, or wolves, I’m talking about dog ticks!
These gruesome little critters are arachnids, like spiders. But unlike spiders, they're not hunters, they're parasites who feast on the blood of an unwitting host. For whatever reason they seem to have a particular liking for dogs, and if your dog spends time in open fields or woodlands, he's likely to attract these freeloaders.
These parasites have perfected the art of ambush. They cling to a tall stalk of grass and wait for an unsuspecting animal to walk by. Then they hop on board, burrow under the fur and begin feeding.
They even inject a numbing agent into the wound, so that the dog does not detect their presence. And they are voracious feeders. A tick can suck up to 100 times its own body weight in blood.It's therefore very important to check your dog for ticks. In fact, this should be part of your grooming regime.
You'll be looking for one of two kinds of ticks. The first type is round, hard bodied, brown in color, and looks a bit like a small spider. The other somewhat resembles a leech, it is greyish, and may be flaccid or distended depending on the amount of blood it has consumed.
If you do find a tick on your dog it is vital that you remove it immediately. Ticks are a serious threat to dog health and spread a number of serious illnesses, including Lyme Disease. They also attack humans, and as someone who has been bitten, and suffered a bout of tick bite fever, I can assure you that it is no joke.So how do you remove these parasites? Well for starters don't follow any of the folksy remedies like burning, using petroleum jelly or alcohol. These methods don't work.
The right way to do it is with a fine-tipped pair of tweezers. Get a grip on the tick's head as close to the dog's skin as you can, then pull back gently, giving a gentle twist as you do so.You should also use a hydrocortisone spray on the bite spot to take care of the irritation.
Once you've removed the tick place it in a bowl with an ammonia based household cleaner to kill it. Or if you have pity on the poor creature you could just flush it, but be aware that it will most likely go on to feed on some other poor animal or person.
If your dog is often outdoors in fields or woodland I'd recommend that you treat him with a preventative like Frontline or Revolution, one a month. This will kill any ticks already attached and prevent other freeloaders from using your dog as their personal buffet.
Learn more about dog ticks, dog care, puppy care and other helpful dog info at www.dogsanddogtraining.com
Filed under Pets at Home by
Dogs communicate using a complex "language", based on physical cues. Learn to understand this language and you'll develop a much better understanding of your dog's needs, wants, and moods. You'll also give your dog training efforts a serious boost, as you'll be communicating on a level your dog readily understands.
Unfortunately, no-one has yet written a handy reference guide, but by following the guidelines set out below you'll quickly be up to speed on what your dog is trying to tell you.
Here are some of the most common dog language cues you'll need to know.
Standing Still – When a dog suddenly stops moving and stands very still, he's indicating to you that he wants to be left alone. He may also do this if he's standing guard over some or other possession. You may also see this behavior if a dog is given a treat while there are other dogs around.
Exposing his Teeth – Dogs seldom attack without warning. They may growl, raise their hackles, and posture. And if all else fails, they'll show their teeth as a final warning that they're about to attack. The best thing to do is to back down.
Growling – Growling is a dog's way of telling you to back off. If you refuse to do so, you'll hear the growl rise in intensity as the dog works himself up for an attack.Dog owners often shout at the dog, or punish him for growling. This is the worst thing you can do. Growling is a warning and if the dog is not allowed to growl he may just bite.
Raising the Hackles – The hackles refer to a ridge of hair that runs down the center of the back. A dog that is frightened will often raise his hackles to try and make himself look bigger. Be aware that there is often more risk of a bite from a frightened dog, than from an aggressive one.
Tucking the tail between the legs – A classic sign of fear or timidity, but can also mean the dog is anxious. This may have any number of causes, the owner leaving the house for instance, or the dog being introduced to a stranger.
Putting the head down – This can have a number of meanings. It could be a submissive behavior where the dog tries to avoid eye contact, or it could be an invitation to play.
Raising a Paw – This is a friendly gesture meaning, "let's be friends".
Wagging the tail – The tail is one of the dog's most important communication devices, and the one that is most often misinterpreted. A common belief is that a wagging tail suggests happiness, but this is only true if the tail is being wagged loosely.If the tail is moving in rapid, short, side to side flicks, it means that that dog is agitated, while a tail that is wagged while being held between the legs indicates fear, or uncertainty.
In the canine world, body language will always carry more weight than words. Yes, a dog may learn voice commands, but they will always be secondary to posture and movement.
Learn to interpret their language and you'll understand your dog that much better.
Learn more about dog training tips, dog care, information on dogs and other interesting dog information at www.dogsanddogtraining.com
Filed under Pets at Home by
Tapeworms, scientific name Dipylidium caninum, are parasites that infest the small intestines of many animals, including dogs and humans. They can grow of to 20 inches in length, with a body that is flat, white and segmented.
They survive by attaching themselves to the intestinal lining and then feeding off the nutrients in the food the dog eats. As they mature the tail segments, containing tapeworm eggs, break off. If the dog has tapeworm you will clearly see these, which resemble grains of rice, in the faeces.Dogs become infected by swallowing a flea that contains tapeworm eggs. The infestation cycle goes something like this. A flea larva eats tapeworm eggs. The larva then grows into a mature flea, living on the dog.
The dog may swallow the flea while biting an itchy spot on his skin. Once the eggs are in the dog's system they hatch, and the worms attach themselves to the intestines and start feeding. Later, as they mature, the tail segments break off and the next batch of tapeworm eggs is excreted by the dog to start the cycle all over again.
Tapeworms are not particularly harmful. They absorb only a small percentage of the nutrients that your dog eats and cause only mild irritation. However, a severe infestation may cause your dog to lose weight, so it is always advisable to treat your dog if he has worms.
The clearest indication is tapeworm eggs in the faeces. A common belief is that a dog that scoots along the ground has tapeworm, but this is not usually the case. The behavior is more commonly due to skin irritation around the anal are, or to blocked anal sacs.
Fortunately, tapeworms are very easy to eradicate, Just give your dog a vet prescribed or commercial de-wormer and the problems will be over in no time. Be advised though that some over-the-counter worm medications contain pesticides, so they can cause health problems if used too often.
If you take your dog to the vet, the treatment will normally be a pill or injection that dissolves the protective outer lining of the tapeworm. This allows the worm to be digested and passed from the body.
While most dogs will suffer a tapeworm infestation at some time, you can reduce the chances of it happening to your dog.
To begin with you can have your dog de-wormed every 3 months or so. Most de-worming medications protect against other parasitic worms too, including hookworms, roundworms and other parasites
It is also important to keep your dog free of fleas, as tapeworms cannot be passed without them. Simply give your dog a monthly flea preventative and keep the dog's bedding and environment free of these pests.
Bear in mind also, that although it is extremely rare, some tapeworm species can be passed from dogs to humans. And as they're so easy to control, why take the risk?
Click here to learn more about tapeworms in dogs, dog care, dog walking and other useful dog advice at www.dogsanddogtraining.com
Filed under Pets at Home by
